Pamukkale - Gün 1

We arrived at Denizli's Otogar at 6:30am after our 6.5 hour bus ride; the sun was rising and the smog was just barely visible over the city. We successfully maneuvered our way onto a bus to Pamukkale (pronounced pah-MOO-kah-leh), and settled in for the ride.

We got off in the center of the village (pop. 2500) and were immediately approached by a pension owner who took us to his hotel: "You don't have to stay. It's okay. Just look. Come, lady." So, we looked. As we walked away, the price of the room dropped 5 YTL.


Peppers drying on a balcony
The next 15-30 minutes were spent walking around the village- close to the main street, looking at various shops, restaurants, and other buildings. Children were walking about in their school uniforms, but no one else was really around.

The aforementioned pension owner found us again, while on his scooter, and offered to help us find whatever hotel we were looking for (except we weren't looking for anything). We ended up going back to his pension, and taking the room with private bathroom for 25 lira ("Special price for first people!"). Such a persistant salesman should be rewarded, especially since he was the only one trying and it is the off season.

After a rather long nap, we headed for the Travertines and Hierapolis.


Ice-like calcium (rock) formations
Pamukkale was formed by calcium-rich water running over a hill. The calcium dries and forms hard, ridged surfaces which can be tough on the feet. For much of the climb upwards (and downwards) shoes weren't allowed, so as to preserve the beauty of the travertines. The water was warm, and it felt good on our feet which were irritated by the calcium rock.


Water running over the calcium-coated ground


A dried calcium-coated ground



The calcium-formations have the appearance of snow, but the weather was quite warm- around 70 degrees.


Half-filled travertine pools
The travertines above are naturally formed, and people are no longer allowed to climb into them. There are several artificial, cement travertines along the path up the hill.


A Roman theatre in the Hierapolis
The warm mineral baths attracted Romans, and they built a spa city atop the travertines. Hierapolis had more Roman ruins than I had seen in Rome itself.


St. Philip Martyrium
The Martyrium of St. Philip the Apostle was high above the rest of Hierapolis. I'm not even sure you could see it from below, but it was beautiful. It involved much climbing over rocks and hills to get to.


Tombs in the Hierapolis Necropolis


Someone's Speedo-ed behind (see the upper left hand corner) always ruins such photos.
Hierapolis had a very nice mineral pool, complete with real Roman ruins. The water was some of the clearest I had ever seen, and it was supposed to cure all kinds of health problems. However, it did not manage to fix me.

We spent some time by the pool, eating ice cream and drinking fresh pomegranate juice. There was a view of the Roman theatre from some angles and lots of cats begging for food (as usual).


Above, you can see the white travertines at sunset. It also shows part of the way/hill which we had to climb up and down.


A sunset over the Travertines

Our pension owner prepared us dinner that night (typical chicken with tomato-y stuff, peppers, onions, etc., a salad, bread, and small sugary bread dessert) and we went to bed.